SFGate.com has a glowing article on travel to Armenia.

The author weaves her way past Khor Virap, Noravank, and Zorats Qarer, to my favourite place, Tatev:

The road to Tatev is bumpy, but it soon opens to reveal a lushly wooded canyon — the monastery perched on top like a crown. Indeed, this 9th century complex was viewed as something of a prize to invaders who attacked the site in numerous bloody waves. Other than a caretaker (an old woman who appeared periodically to gather pears that have fallen beneath a courtyard tree) we were once again practically alone, free to explore the faded frescoes in dark rooms; to consider the grisly remnants of a fairly recent chicken sacrifice; to climb the lurchy heights of the fortified walls, and to imagine the 13th century Mongols who, historians say, pushed Christians into the gorge.

Read the full article.

An admirable, well-researched article by Jane Wampler.